1. Separate adapter ring and profile plate. They were bolted together for ease of shipping.
2. Bolt adapter ring to motor with 3/8"-16 allen capscrews provided to 35 ft-lb of torque. (I added blue threadlock too)
3. Bolt adapter profile plate to adapter ring with 1/2" - 13 bolts provided. Torque to 35 ft-lbs. I added blue thread-lock too.
4. Test-fit the key in the bushing (on left) before assembly. It should slide easily. If it does not, rotate it 90 degrees and try again, as one orientation might fit better than the other. If there is a difference, use the fit that slides easily. Insert key on motor shaft (picture above). My shaft key didn't fit in the motor shaft and I had to file down the sides a bit before it went in. Hopefully most folks won't have to do this...
5. Your hub may have an indexing dimple or scribed line on the inner edge, next to the bushing. If you have the indexing mark (mine did), be sure to align the slit in the bushing with the mark. Slide the hub/bushing assembly over the shaft and key. The assembly should move freely on the shaft.
6. Gradually tighten the 10-24 allen-head screws in the hub/bushing assembly (see picture above) until the assembly will move on the shaft only with some slight effort. DO NOT USE ANY LOCTITE ON THESE SCREWS.
7. Mount the flywheel on the hub, using existing flywheel bolts. Tighten just enough to hold the flywheel firmly in place on the hub. (I used two bolts to ease the installation)
8. Move the flywheel/hub assembly until the distance from the face of the flywheel to the face of the adapter is .774" +/- .010" I used a straightedge to extend the face of the flywheel out to the face of the adapter plate to measure this distance with my calipers.
9. Once the spacing is correct, carefully remove the flywheel without disturbing the position of the hub. Tighten the 10-24 allen-head screws in a "star" pattern (criss-crossing to tighten bolts in opposing pairs instead of going from one to the next in a circle). Tighten firmly by hand, but without upper arm strength, as it is possible to snap off these screws. The necessary torque is less than 1 ft-lb.
10. Re-install the flywheel on the hub with red loctite and recheck the magic distance. If the distance is incorrect, determine the amount and direction of error. Remove the flywheel and loosen the allen-head screws about 1/2". Free the hub from the bushing with a sharp rap on the bolts using a brass hammer. Reposition bushing on shaft in the direction and amount to compensate for the distance error. Re-assemble as above.
11. Lock the flywheel from rotation and torque the bolts to the manufacturers specifications. This torque is 87 ft-lbs for the Honda Civic. Since I knocked off the starting teeth from the flywheel, I didn't have anything to hold it steady. Instead i used a piece of angle iron with a hole in one side to hold the flywheel still using two of the clutch plate alignment pins.
12. If your hub has a brass pilot bushing, lube it with a thin layer of molybdenum based grease. I don't believe the Civic has this pilot bushing.
I wanted to make sure the motor spun well with the flywheel installed, so I attached a local armature-to-stator wire (S2 to A1) before attaching a battery. I used Noalox anti-corrosion compound and heat-shrink tubing with integrated heat-glue to keep the connections tight.
After installing the clutch disk and pressure plate (using the centering tool for alignment), I spun up the motor with a the Civic's original 12V battery to make sure it ran in the proper direction. Since the voltage is so low, I didn't worry about over-reving the motor. If I had used 144V, over-revving the motor would be likely.
Next up: attaching the motor to the transmission
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