I found a tiny 0.1uF tantalum capacitor at work. After bending one lead back on itself and cutting off the excess wires to leave 3/16" sticking out, I simply jammed the two leads into the rear end of the blue plug that attaches to the PakTrakr module. I'm hoping that the pressure between the plastic case and the metal pins will be enough to hold the contact.
After jamming the cap in there, I just wrapped a bit of electrical tape around the whole thing. I think a piece of heatshrink tubing would have been better, but I didn't have any of the correct size.
Here's my first graph of valid PakTrakr data (click to enlarge). I'm really impressed with how well the 0.1uF capacitors cut out all the extra garbage. This plot contains several times where I punch the accelerator and pull 300 noisy amps from the batteries. I still think that the series 100 ohm resistor between the rear PakTrakr module and the front one helps, but the capacitors do the trick.
It seems the PakTrakr modules really don't like to read the voltages on the balancers when they are shunting current around the batteries. Here's what's happening in the graph:
- For the first 50 seconds, the batteries are charging and the balancers are keeping things even. The top battery on each monitor is measuring way low (12.3V) but my multimeter says everything is fine.
- From 50 to 120 seconds the charger is turned off
- From 120 to 130 seconds I start up the controller and get ready to back out for a spin. Whoops! I left my gas guzzler in the driveway and can't get out!
- From 130 to 330 seconds, I'm parking my gas guzzler. Note that the two batteries that were measuring low are much closer to the average.
- From 330 to 885 seconds, I went for a quick spin on the freeway and drew 300 amps from the batteries at several points.
- From 885 seconds to the end, the car was just sitting there as I ran to get my laptop to collect data. Note that all the batteries seem to be at around 12.9 volts now, according to the PakTrakr.
Ugh, time to get ready for the week...